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Rick Owens autumn winter 2011 collection at Paris Fashion Week
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Rick Owens autumn winter 2011 collection at Paris Fashion Week – Rick Owens Autumn winter fashion trends for women 2011: The tunics and loose trousers tucked into boots at Rick Owens’ autumn/winter 2011 collection shown at the Paris prêt-à-porter season today, suggested a slight Cossack air to me.
The designer, however, was quick to clarify my interpretation; I was way off the radar, by a few millennium, at least.
“Cossack? No! I was thinking more caveman; you know, the idea of ‘just throw a blanket over her’. That was my basis.”
If indeed ‘troglodytes’ were Owens’ starting point, then he has crafted a best-dressed ‘Neanderthal look’ which would suggest Raquel Welch in ‘One Million Years B.C.’ was very poorly served indeed, by the wardrobe department.
This was in no way a question of ‘just throwing a blanket’ over anyone. The collection was a superbly crafted, proportioned and coloured blend of pieces, which started with a hood, or knitted ‘snood’, and progressed through a series of layers, through to wedge-soled knee-boots.
Working in a mix of fur, cashmere, leather, jersey, wool, and padded nylon, Owens created a sublime silhouette which encased the body in a strong, but still sensual manner.
Posted in Damir Doma autumn winter collection 2011 at Paris Fashion Week
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Damir Doma autumn winter collection 2011 at Paris Fashion Week – Damir Doma autumn winter fashion trends for Women 2011, latest Damir Doma autumn winter fashion collection 2011: What do you call a skirt that is not a skirt? Something that is a panel, long and rectangular and concealing the legs at the back, sides or front, but revealing leggings and thick, opaque hose elsewhere?Fashionspeak has not yet invented a name for this curious semi-garment which appears to have gripped the imagination of several of Paris’s avant-garde, including Damir Doma, who showed his autumn/winter 2011 collection here this morning. Doma, a Croatia-born, Germany-raised and Belgian-trained young designer, launched his career in Paris, with menswear in 2006.
This was his third womenswear showing; one in which he explored a strangely austere, almost monastic medieval inspiration in a palette of black, bronze and orange, mixed with shaggy Mongolian lamb in shades of brown, black and grey.
The models’ hair was scraped back underneath old-fashioned black hair-nets, which fastened under the chin in the manner of a helmet. The skirt panels, slightly armourial in appearance, appeared in black and bronze leather, or a leopard-printed pony skin, sharp, straight rectangles of material which stopped short at the knee, or else continued down to the ankles, where feet were shod in extreme-platform, rubber-soled shoes and ankle-boots. The armourial feeling was heightened with metallic knits and shiny silver and copper armlets and cuffs.
Emporio Armani autumn winter collection 2011 at Milan Fashion Week
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Emporio Armani autumn winter collection 2011 at Milan Fashion Week – Emporio Armani autumn winter fashion trends for women 2011: Mata Hari’ and ‘Anouska’ are the stars of Giorgio Armani’s Emporio collection. Giorgio Armani took inspiration from film noir for an all-black Emporio Armani collection at Milan Fashion Week today.
His autumn/winter 2011 muse was “The Spy”, but the Mata Hari allure was almost outshown by the cameo role played by his sister Rosanna’s Norfolk Terrier, Anouska.
Cradled in the arms of a leggy model, her golden fur glistening against black silk and leather, wearing a GA dog coat and wagging her tail, the little pooch appeared to be enjoying every minute of her moment in the spotlight.
The designer emphasised the seduction of the international “woman of mystery”, with dark glasses and peaked caps worn low on the forehead. He zeroed in on trousers in this Emporio collection, showing every conceivable shape from aviator to zouave. In black silk, black leather, black velvet and fine black wool, they came cropped to the knee; culotte-style and pleated; as jumpsuits; tucked into boots; cuffed at the ankle; worn long and skinny under split, wrap skirts; cut scissor-sharp, with raw-edge finishes; ruched-up the calves in the manner of the shalwar-kameez; or accessorised with pocketed-belts. Sculpted jackets featured concealed or covered buttons and came in leather with Mongolian or shaggy, faux-fur lapels.
Marni autumn winter collection 2011 at Milan Fashion Week
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Marni autumn winter collection 2011 at Milan Fashion Week – Marni autumn winter fashion trends for Women 2011: Consuelo Castiglioni, the designer at Marni, is no stranger to the eclectic mix which makes wearable clothes a unique and striking statement.
She wove an octagonal grid-pattern, geometric stripes, and a star-print through a range of layered separates that were a further evolution in her concept of modern glamour.
Double-crepe, wool, leather, fur and silk were blended in layers of differing lengths, offering the illusion of different proportions within the one ensemble: short jackets over longer tunics, over a new “scarf-hemlined” skirt or dress. The palette contrasted murky, urban tones with offbeat brights, and strict lines were contradicted by those floaty hems, jewelled necklines, and beaded, tasseled, and pom pom embroidery.
She said her references were the strict discipline of Martha Graham contemporary dance and modern architecture, softened with quirky, feminine touches; “the contradiction in clothing, that I love.”
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Missoni autumn winter collection 2011 at Milan Fashion Week
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Missoni autumn winter collection 2011 at Milan Fashion Week – Missoni autumn winter fashion trends for Women 2011: Angela Missoni’s father, Tai Missoni, who founded the famous Italian family knitwear label with his wife Rosita in 1953, proudly led his daughter onto the catwalk after a ‘fairytale’ collection at Milan Fashion Week today.‘Fairytale’ is the appropriate word, for this was a collection in which magic and fantasy met with high-tech brilliance in the sweetest of marriages
Angela Missoni, who took over the design reins in 1996, was inspired by what she called “enchanted and enchanting fairies” who appear “very real” thanks to human ingenuity with volume, cut, fabric, yarns and accessories.
The models appeared to drift down the catwalk in ice-cream coloured tweeds and florals, with coordinating biker boots in patch-worked snakeskin and suede.
The silhouette was loose and long, mixing maxi-skirts and dresses with oversized men’s sweaters and floor-grazing riding-coats; or pretty, lace-knitwear with baggy, low-slung trousers and shorts.
Pink elephants and floral bouquets were embroidered on silk-velvet and chiffon maxis, worn with pastel-stripe, knitted mink vests. Tweeds were blanket-checked in candy colours. And zig-zag and floral intarsia knits – Missoni signatures – came shadow-dyed in shades of mint, raspberry, lilac and strawberry, or threaded with ribbons, and teamed with embroidered, feather-skirts.